During the day that we spent in Saint Malo, we ate a little of this and that, I didn't take many pictures. The Kouign Amann seen above is one of my absolute favorites. It is a little like a creme puff but crispy and more airy (and often no filling). It is a round flakey cake, made with bread dough containing layers of butter (lots of butter) and sugar folded in, similar in fashion to puff pastry albeit with fewer layers and more flakey. The resulting cake is slowly baked until the butter puffs up the dough (resulting in the layered aspect of it) and the sugar caramelizes. The name derives from the Breton words for cake (“kouign”) and butter (“amann”). We must have eaten at least a half a dozen of this light and flaky cake. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the place that sells them, but if you go, you will recognize the sign and the line waiting to buy.
Once the feared base of pirates (corsairs), heavily fortified against Norman (or English) attack, today's Saint-Malo is one of the top tourist draws in Brittany. The citadel, also known as the Old Town or intramuros (“within the walls”), was originally built on a rocky island at the mouth of the Rance estuary. This strategic position allowed control of both the sea and any trade heading into the interior of Brittany, helping to shape the stormy and often dark history of the city.
The star of the show is the walled city (intramuros), largely destroyed in the second world war it has been painstakingly reconstructed. The modern towns of Parame and Saint-Servan lie outside the walls. During the day everyone hits the beaches and at night they come to the intramuros to eat and party until late in the night. They have free concerts every night just to the right of the picture, artists doing sketches and lots of little stores, restaurants and bars.